Then and now: Westminster Street view

I was a sophomore at Providence's Classical High School in 1967, the year that the Rhode Island Mall (then called the Midland Mall) opened in Warwick. That year is generally thought of as marking the end of retail in downtown Providence — at least, until the present "renaissance."

But it isn't really fair to say that the opening of the Warwick malls killed downtown, because it had already been failing. An effort to restore vitality to Westminster Street by turning it into a pedestrian walkway closed to cars wasn't working, even though as late as the mid-'60s, the street was still lined with stores that were far busier than those that are there today, 40 years later.

In the old postcard view on the left, you can see the planters that occupied the middle of the Westminster pedestrian mall, along with shoppers heading for stores like Woolworth and Thom McCan shoes on the left side and Kay Jewelers on the right. At that time, the two big downtown department stores were still operating — Shepard's and the Outlet — along with dozens of smaller stores like Peerless, Gladding's, Lerner and Casual Corner.
All are gone now, and the present view (right), taken from the corner of Westminster and Union Street (next to Tazza cafe), shows the planters gone, the street reopened to cars — and an absence of shoppers on a weekday afternoon. This might be because the stores that have opened in the past few years on Westminster are determinedly upscale: A wine boutique called Eno, a modern furniture store called Design Within Reach (whose?), and women's fashion stores such as Elsa Arms are typical. Other than a few stores like Oop and Bowl & Board that cater to students decorating their dorms, there's little for sale on Westminster to draw the everyday shopper. The expectation is that the hundreds of condos for sale downtown will soon fill with well-to-do people who will need to buy fine wine and Eames chairs but who won't need to run out for groceries or a pair of stockings or a tube of toothpaste.

It generally works better, though, when stores go where the people are. In 1967, the malls were built in the suburbs because that's where the people had moved. Speaking about the Warwick malls, which he co-managed, for a 1999 Providence Journal article, developer Aram Garabedian said, "The shopping center (in Warwick) followed the people; the people didn't follow the shopping center."
Forty years later, Providence is still hoping they'll be back soon.

Thayer Street revisited

A new generation of Brown University students crops up every four years, so the quarter-mile stretch of Thayer Street that is the campus's commercial heart is an always-evolving mirror of the fickle culture of youth.

I first laid eyes on the street as a high school sophomore, back in the days when Ladd's Music had the White Album, Jone Pasha's was where you went to get your flower-child dresses, Rascal House was where everyone went after last call, and IHOP was where to go for pancakes the morning after.
At that time, the older generation still had Thayer Market for carriage-trade groceries, E.P. Anthony pharmacy, Mills Sisters for dresses, Mark David for men's suits, Ms for hostess gifts, and Clarke's for flowers.

These days, Thayer is all about youth. People who remember it as it used to be are always wringing their hands, saying the street has become too punk or too full of motorcyclists and panhandlers. But there is no denying that it is one of the busiest streets in all of Providence. There is always foot traffic on Thayer, from early morning to the wee hours of the next day.

I took a stroll along Thayer recently, walking north from the corner of Waterman Street up to Cushing Street, just to look at what's there right now. Leaving out services like banks, salons and optometrists, here's what's on Thayer today:

First block: Cold Stone Creamery, Starbucks. Other side: Yang's (Asian gifts and T shirts) and Foreign Affair (Euro clothing).
Second block: Viva Paragon restaurant. Other side: Au Bon Pain cafe, Pie in the Sky (jewelry and gifts), Juniper frozen yogurt, and Tealuxe tea shop.
Third block: Brown Bookstore. Other side: Roba Dolce (gelato), Geoff's (sandwiches).
Fourth block: Spectrum (Indian clothing and gifts), Gordito Burrito (Mexican food), Antonio's Pizza, the Avon Cinema, Andrea's (Greek restaurant). Other side: Kabob & Curry (Indian food), Nice Slice pizza, Rock Star (body piercing), Johnny Rockets ('50s-theme restaurant).
Fifth block: Berk's (shoes), Shanghai (Chinese restaurant), Blaze (fusion restaurant), East Side Pockets (Middle Eastern), Kartabar restaurant/bar, ZuZu's Petals (dresses), Bagel Gourmet, J&J's Candy, Beadworks, Second Time Around (consignments). Other side: City Sports, Spike's (hotdogs), Shark (sushi, coming soon), Details (accessories), Army & Navy Surplus, Shades Plus (sunglasses), Sushi Xpress, Urban Outfitters (clothes and dorm stuff). At the corner of the last block is Blue State Coffee.

That's 24 restaurants and 16 stores, plus a movie theater and services like CVS and Store 24 all in five short blocks of one street. No wonder Thayer so busy it's hard to find a place to park nearby: No other street in Providence is that densely packed with stuff to buy and do.

Because the street is such a reflection of its times, revisiting it can make you feel your age. Of all the places listed here, only the Avon, Andrea's and Spectrum remain from 1968, and Spectrum is in a different building.

IN THE PHOTOS , Tealuxe (in the curved-front brick building) is where Mills Sisters dress shop used to be, and Roba Dolce is in the Tudor-style E.P. Anthony Drugs building at right.

SOLD! in Portsmouth: Auctioning art and antiques

Ever wonder where dealers go to get the antique paintings, silver, furniture and artifacts they sell in their stores?
They go to auctions like those held about once a month at the Portsmouth, RI auction gallery run by auctioneer-extraordinaire Mike Corcoran. (You can find a list of upcoming auctions all over New England at Antiques and the Arts online.)
Even if you don't buy anything, you'll learn a lot about what things are worth by going to an auction — and if you go to one of Corcoran's, you'll be entertained as well. At yesterday's auction of estate items, you would have learned that your great-grandmother's long-handled brass bed-warmer isn't worth much more than 50 bucks — and that a 1920s California landscape painting by Maurice Braun would draw rapid-fire phone bids from California art galleries topping off at $34,000.
In between, there was plenty of action in the $500 to $5,000 range as Corcoran entertained the crowd with the antics they've come to see. Every once in a while, he draws gasps by lobbing a just-sold vase or cloisonnee dish to sidekick "Murph." At one point during yesterday's show, he removed a tiny fig leaf from the front of a bronze male nude: "Spitzer last week. . . Spitzer today!"
When a beautifully carved wooden music box came up for bid, he lifted the lid so the audience could hear it play a tinkling waltz. Then, calling one of the women in the crowd to join him, he took her for a little spin, saying in a broad aside to the audience, "When the moment is right, will you be ready?"

Boys' toys in Foxboro: Bass Pro Shops

It doesn't ever take much convincing to get RG to drive up to Foxboro for some shopping. That's because Patriots' owner Bob Kraft's "Guy Mall" — now taking shape around Gillette Stadium — already includes a superstore that exerts the same attraction to men as a salt lick does to deer.
Bass Pro Shops Outdoor World is unlike any other store you've ever been to, as much about entertainment and lifestyle as it is about actually selling stuff. You see men in workboots and NASCAR jackets pushing around carts in a happy trance, and to tell the truth, it's almost as much fun for women.
The store celebrates the rugged outdoor world of hunting and fishing and sells the infinite variety of accouterments needed to pursue both. You can buy everything from a bass fishing boat to a set of plaster casts that let you tell the age of a deer by its teeth. A motion-detecting night camera lets you capture on film a fisher cat or an owl that passes by its lens. Tents, truck boxes, duck blinds, gas grills, water toys, lodge-style furniture, fish-finders, GPS, binoculars, bait, ATVs, camouflage clothing, fluorescent orange clothing, camouflage make-up and, yes, camouflage make-up remover pads.
It's all there, laid out on two floors decorated with hundreds of taxidermy specimens of moose standing in a rock-lined pool, deer leaping over the water with wolves in pursuit, bears, foxes, wild turkeys, pheasants. . . . An indoor trout stream plunges into a 30,000-gallon glass-walled aquarium where you can see real trout, bass, and catfish swimming. All over the store, animal and bird calls punctuate the background noise of rushing water or rustling leaves. A wall of windows invites you to lounge in big leather club chairs and look out upon a pond and cranberry bog populated with statues of Big Horn Sheep and other critters that you can spot through sample scopes. There's a nice restaurant for lunch that includes a Wild West-style antique bar that's always lined with rear views of men in truckers' caps or suits talking "guy" to each other.
And then there are the arcades: A shooting gallery lets you knock over varmints and set a barn door swinging to reveal a growling bear. A laser arcade sets up interactive images of bounding deer or scattering doves that you knock down with your rifle.

Our excuse for going had been to find a pair of duck shoes, which we did. But you know how guys are with shopping: We ended up spending the whole afternoon.

Border crossing to Connecticut: Logee's Greenhouse

Retired Guy and I took the TomTom over the border into Connecticut yesterday, in part to see how the little guy did in a strange country and in part to visit the tropical landscape inside the Big House greenhouse of Logee's in Danielson. A family business since 1892, Logee's is an institution in the plant world, specializing in indoor tropicals, many of them grafted from stock that's more than 100 years old. The most famous of these is a 108-year-old Ponderosa lemon tree that grows 5-pound lemons the size of footballs.
We weren't buying, just looking and drinking in the fragrant humidity in anticipation of spring. The jasmine was in full bloom, the tree camellias were showing a last burst of color, and the hibiscus shown here looked luscious enough to eat. We chatted with owner Byron Martin, third generation of the Logees to carry on the business, and noted he had not only a green thumb but a green forefinger, these he said, an occupational hazard from the dyes in the fertilizer he had been using.


Oh, and TomTom did just great, getting us from Providence to Danielson in about a half an hour. Next, we challenged him with a detour to East Hartford, but more on that later.

Lorraine but no Marilyn

I had been meaning to get up to Lorraine's in Pawtucket to try to get some more of an upholstery fabric that I didn't buy enough of in November. I just wanted to have a little extra on hand as insurance in the event of some unexpected upholstery disaster. When I got there, Marilyn was gone. "Is Marilyn around?" I asked, thinking she might be at lunch, though she never had been before. "No, she's been gone since right after Christmas," said the very nice woman occupying Marilyn's accustomed spot at the cutting table. "She retired."
Everyone around began recalling Marilyn stories. No one seemed able to believe she'd retired at 77, after 29 years at Lorraine's.

She was a pistol, all right. Didn't suffer fools and could tell you from a 2-inch swatch where the bolt was it came from. Told one guy he'd gained weight and should lose it. Told me in November I should buy the rest of the bolt because I wouldn't see it again. Did I listen? No. And now the bolt was out of stock and so was Marilyn.